Friday, October 11, 2019

Juicing

Picking a juicer really depends on how much you plan on juicing. Hand juicers are fine for home use and cocktails to order but most bars need the help of something a bit more industrial. Check my post about different juicers here.

Juicing citrus is fairly simple. If the stem of your fruit is a "pole", cut the fruit in half along the equator. insert the fruit cut side down onto the juicer, be it a hand juicer, press, or mechanical. If there's an interuption you can leave the cut fruit up to 2 hours before juicing.  Apply pressure manually, or through the lever until the juice is extracted down to the pith. Juice into a china cap over a cambro. When juicing to order (a la minute) you can squeeze directly into a jigger for cocktail service. This has some drawbacks though.

I don't recommend juicing anything a la minute. every different piece of produce you juice will have different sugar and acid content. Also depending on the pulp in your juice and how you strain the cocktail, you could be getting wildly different yields. juicing in large batches and straining allows for greater consistency over the course of the shift. Some people like the pageantry of seeing the fresh juice squeezed in front of them but it does lead to less consistency overall.

A simple way to juice berries or other soft fruits like kiwis at home is to just muddle them through a mesh strainer over a container. After you've mashed a bit, scrape out the spent pulp from the inside. This keeps the strainer from getting too clogged. The mesh will catch all the skin and seeds and the liquid will flow through. Depending on the density of the mesh you made need to filter the juice more times.

Fresh juice has a fairly narrow window for their ideal flavor. Lemons, limes, and grapefruit are delicious freshly juiced but many people think they get even more flavorful after a few hours of rest and are good up to 2 days (48 hours) later. The shelf life of oranges is a bit less forgiving. Oranges contain substances called lactones, which after juicing, develop into limonin which has a bitter flavor. Fresh is best wish oranges but you can use it up to 4 hours after without much issue.

Myth: Room temperature citrus yields more juice than cold produce.
This theory is odd. People think that the fruit sacks or cells are scrunched together and warming them up will ease the process of juicing. Some people even think that microwaving the fruit will make it possible to extract more juice. Don't do that. Everyone who has tested this has disproven this concept.  The yields are the same regardless. 

Myth: Rolling the citrus yields more juice.
This is the same silly idea. Even Jamie Oliver thought this works. No, it doesn't. People have tested it. Don't waste your time. A good press juicer extracts all the juice possible, you're not manifesting new juice.

Thursday, September 26, 2019

Juicers

Hand presses or clamshell or elbow juicers are the most common type of juicer I see in the home and are also found in some cocktail bars which utilize al la minute juice service. friendly reminder that when juicing halves of fruit they go flat side down, not conforming to the bowl shape of the press. Cut Side Down! Older styles had a flat base to match and no holes for drainage of juice, simply a pour spout on the side to dispense the fresh juice. Newer styles have a curved bowl to cause the half-cut citrus to partially flip inside out along with holes at the bottom to allow it to dispense into a tin or other receptacle. An issue with these style of juicer is the variable size of citrus and you'll most likely need a different one for lemons, small limes, and larger oranges and grapefruit. Material is important when purchasing. plastics can break easily some metals are much more difficult to clean than others, especially when scuffed after extended usage. Amco is a good durable metal brand. Norpro is a bit more expensive but many experts swear by it. Chef'n Force does a good job and alleviates strain on the wrist but does have a shorter lifespan I've found.

Standing levered presses are very popular in homes and in bars with a fresh juice program in medium but not excessive volumes. There are two main types, those with gears and teeth and those with a hinged concept that acts more like a scaled-up hand press. Hamilton Beach is the most common brand of the former and has become quite affordable. At volume, these do tend to break down after a few months, but they work amazingly well for home use. The parts can't practically be replaced and tuned other than some simple cleaning and oiling. Ra Chand is a fine example of the latter. It also has a much longer shelf life and requires less care, cleaning, and maintenance. It is a little clunky to operate, especially on a high bartop.

Motorized Reamers are widely utilized by bars juicing high volumes of juices. these are certainly more expensive but they do last substantially longer, making up for the cost in the long run. The preferred brand is Sunkist. These are HEAVY and noisy. They belong in the prep area of a bar/restaurant not anywhere near the front of the house. the fact that you're juicing your citrus by hand leans to a lot of strain on the hands and arms. There's minimal contact with the skin compared to press juicers so not a lot of oil is extracted, but you do yield a substantial amount of juice. Also, your hands do get messy. Wear gloves. Even then your hands will slip on the oil of the skin and the fruit will spin like it was the pottery wheel in ghost.

Fully automated juicers like Zumex were my best friend at several of the bars I've worked at. All you need to do is fill the hopper at the top with oranges (you can do other fruits but it'll wear on the blades and other parts) and the machine will slice it, press it (with pressure on the skin to extract oil), and partially filter large pulp from the juice. It's load and forget, no effort or strain on the body whatsoever. They are quite expensive though, upwards of two thousand dollars. not economical for home bartenders but ideal for bars with a busy morning/lunch crowd that enjoys fresh juice.


Juice extractors are the best way to extract liquid fruit fruits and some vegetables. They are broken into two types: Centrifugal Juicers, and Masticating Juicers. Centrifugal juicers spin a blade around slicing and dicing. They're basically motorized food mills that you'd use in the kitchen. They shred the produce and spin it allowing the juice to drain through and the pulp gets separated into a bin. Masticating juicers work almost exactly like a meat grinder, forcing the produce between gears to extract the trapped liquid. Centrifugal juicers do produce a lot more food waste and commonly yield 20% less juice than their masticating counterparts. A con of the masticating juicer is that it doesn't handle large chunks very well without clogging and jamming. you can shove a whole apple in a centrifugal juicer with no issue. So Masticating juicers need some extra prep. Both of these styles are great for pineapples, carrots, celery, rhubarb, ginger, and any other dense or stalky produce. Centrifugal juicers do lead to a lot of air going into the juice which for the most part will dissipate in time, but some bartenders will juice oranges in these a la minute to create a really fluffy textural drink like a garibaldi. Masticating juicers also have loads of attachments which make them very versatile. All kinds of things, like almond milk, butter, iced cream, baby food, and even make pasta can be made with the right attachment. Masticating juicers also are usually about twice the cost of centrifugal juicers, both in the couple hundred dollars range. Preferred brands are Breville and Omega. P.s. never put a banana in these.

Saturday, June 8, 2019

Natural Sage

My Third Award Winning Cocktail. I am properly proud of this drink. I took inspiration from my surroundings. I made a balanced drink which showcased the base. And I sold it like a champion. It's kind of a pain given the prep work required but the texture is so gorgeous. The inspiration was a nice brown butter sage sauce with truffle we'd use in the Italian restaurant I used to work in for our agnoletti. Old Forester Old Fashioned Face Off Philly Champion 2017. 

1 1/2 oz. Old Forester Classic 86 Proof
1/2 oz. Averna Amaro
1/4 oz. Brown Sugar Butter Syrup
2 dashes Dram Wild Mountain Sage Bitters
10 drops Bitter End Chesapeake Bay Bitters


Add all the ingredients to a mixing glass with ice. Stir until well chilled. Strain into a rocks glass with a large cube. Garnish with a sage leaf and a fresh lemon twist.

To make Brown Sugar Butter Syrup:
Add 1 stick of butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir until melted and lightly browned. Add 1 cup water with 2 cups of brown sugar and stir until all is dissolved and uniform. Strain into a wide mouth container and place in the refrigerator. After a few hours take out the syrup. Poke a hole through the solid puck that will have formed. Fine strain the syrup into a bottle of your choice. Store in the fridge.

The culinary inspiration of this cocktail turned it into something I am genuinely proud of. I would argue it is the current high point of my creativity as a bartender. I hope I can come back to this variety of creative drive.

"There are moments when all anxiety and stated toil are becalmed in the infinite leisure and repose of nature."
- Henry David Thoreau

Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Parting Glass


This was my entry for the Copper and Kings Mixt&pe competition. Make a drink to pair with a song. I've been getting into a lot of Classic Irish Folk music. It's a wonderful blend of comedy and tragedy. I chose The Parting Glass as my song, as performed by The High Kings. It rings of a final song, a goodbye, and the joys and lamentations of one's life. My cocktail reflects this balance. Fire's being extinguished, sweetness, bitterness, and intensity

1 oz. Copper & Kings Butchertown Brandy
1/2 oz. C&K Floodwall Apple Brandy
1/2 oz. Rooibos Tea infused Honey Syrup
6 -8 drops Bitter End Moroccan Bitters
Copper & Kings Absinthe Blanche

Add the brandies, honey, and bitters to a mixing glass. Add ice and stir for 12 seconds. Rinse a small cocktail glass with the absinthe and discard. Strain the cocktail into the rinsed coupe. Light a candle and raise your glass.

To make rooibos infused heather honey syrup:
Add 12 oz. of water and 12 oz of heather honey to a saucepan. Apply light heat and stir until well mixed. Measure out 2 tablespoons of loose leaf rooibos red tea and add it to the syrup. Let the tea infuse for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and strain through a mesh filter. Store in the refrigerator.

I can't say this cocktail is one of my favorites. I think I'm going to revisit this idea soon. 

Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Walking in Little Shoes

This was my entry for the Gentleman Jack Whiskey Sour Classic competition. I've been playing a lot with acid solutions, but they tend to fall a bit flat compared to fresh juice. They tend to lack some body and texture, and there are all kinds of flavors in juice besides just acids. We talk about balance in cocktails as a ratio of sugar to acid, and while that is crucial, it is also boring. 

2 oz. Gentleman Jack
1 oz. Acid-Adjusted Apple Juice
1 oz. Honey Syrup
2 dashes Bar Keep Apple Bitters

Add the fluid ingredients in a mixing tin, add ice and shake well for 6 seconds. Rinse the rim of a rocks glass with honey and rim with spicy cinnamon sugar. Add a large ice rock and strain the cocktail into the glass.

Spicy cinnamon sugar: 
Mix 16 parts sugar, 2 parts ground cinnamon, and 1 part cayenne pepper.

Acid-adjusted apple juice: 
To every 100 grams of apple juice, add 1 gram of citric acid and 4 grams of malic acid.

I loved my time down at the Jack Distillery. Kevin the Barrel Man was a hoot. The story of walking through the caves with a chicken on a string was absolutely hilarious. Bluffing his way into massive concerts is something that charmer could do without even trying. Amazing stories all around. Miss Mary Bobo's was a very eclectic, warm experience. The legacy of Jasper "Jack" Daniels lives on all the loyal workers of that entire town. 

"Basically, I'm for anything that gets you through the night - be it prayer, tranquilizers, or a bottle of Jack Daniels."
- Frank Sinatra

Thursday, February 8, 2018

1990

This was my submission to the Bacardi Legacy contest in 2017. The flavors of the rum really got brought out by this classic sour cocktail. The mouthfeel is wonderful. The story is, of course, an absolute fabrication. I'm not a man with a lot of history or sentimentality. Maybe I'll learn to lie better in the future. 

1.5 Bacardi Gold Rum
0.75 Fresh Orange Juice
0.5 Brown Sugar Banana Syrup
0.5 Aquafaba
0.125 Roasted Walnut Oil
Benedictine

Add the Bacardi, orange juice, banana syrup, aquafaba, and walnut oil to a mixing tin. Dry shake until well emulsified. Add ice and shake again until well chilled and frothy. Rinse a coupe with Bénédictine. Double strain the cocktail into the coupe. Add a spritz of Benedictine on top of the cocktail for aroma and garnish with an orange twist.

Brown Sugar Banana Syrup:
Weigh a banana. Measure out equal weights of brown sugar and water. Bring the water to a simmer in a small pot and slowly add the brown sugar. Peel the banana and slice the insides and add them to the pot. Use a hand blender to puree any chunks of banana. Slice the skin of the banana and add them to the pot. Let the syrup simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain through a mesh strainer several times to eliminate any chucks. Keep chilled until ready to use.

This cocktail stems from a classic birthday treat my grandmother taught my mother to make. I suppose she didn't use rum though. For birthdays in my house growing up, I remember having a party with my friends, but we'd always have a family dinner as well where the birthday boy or girl could ask for whatever meal they wanted. I'd always ask for this lovely sweet banana nut bread as a dessert. It had orange zest, brown sugar, ripe bananas, and fresh nuts. It became a tradition. These days, my family is spread out all across the country. Every once in a while I like to make a batch as best I can. I was born in 1990, but I've had many more than 27 of this delicious treat. I hope you enjoy. 

Monday, May 1, 2017

BOLS of Pears

This cocktail was a collaboration between myself and my dear friend Micah. For the first round of the Bols Around The World competition, we were required to make a cocktail that was a variant of a classic cocktail that would be drunk in the year 2025. It was a very humorous notion but one that did inspire thoughts of new techniques and the trends of today. 

2.25 oz. Pear, lime leaf Genever
3/4 oz. Dolin Blanc Vermouth
1 dash Angostura Orange Bitters
Lemon Twist

Stir all of the ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Strain the cocktail into a coupe. Garnish with an expressed lemon twist.

Instructions for infused Bols Genever:
Preheat a water bath to 130°F/54°C. Place 8 oz. of Bols Genever, 2 Asian pears (diced), and 5 fresh kaffir lime leaves in a sealed plastic bag. Let the Bols Genever infusion cook for 3 hours. Remove the bag from the water bath and let it come back to room temperature. Strain the infusion.


Bols of Pears is an homage to the Turf Cocktail no. 2, a classic relative of the martini. Normal infusion of Bols Genever, Asian pear, and kaffir lime leaf can take up to 2 months. Using the modern cooking technique of sous vide you can infuse much faster due to heating up the infusion and having it sealed so none of the alcohol steam escapes. By the year 2025, this technique will be used more and more to create faster infusions for unique cocktails.

The unashamed sweet flavors of this cocktail while still maintaining impeccable balance is why Bols Genever has been a favorite since I discovered it. We decided on mixing it up with kaffir lime leaf and Asian pears because so many modern technologies are being created and perfected in Eastern Asia. I love how much parts of Eastern Asia continue to strive to create new ideas while maintaining customs and cultures of the past. This is exactly what Bols of Pears represents: striving for exciting cutting edge ideas while still maintaining respect for tradition.

"Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut."
- Ernest Hemingway